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Stuck in gear and need expert advice? Ask Andy the Mechanic (a.k.a. Andy Wallen), the proprietor of Wheelcraft Bicycles of Wheeling, WV. (Please, no old bike & antique questions.) E-mail to email@example.com, subject "ask the mechanic," or mail your question directly to Ask the Mechanic, c/o Wheelcraft Bicycles, 2185 National Road, Wheeling, WV, USA 26003. Andy will e-mail your advice and we may post it afterward. Take a look at our back issues to find answers to all kinds of bike fix-it questions.
Give These a
AirFree Bike Tires | Spokemon Bracelets: Cool Fashion for Cyclists, Made of Real Spokes
Backyard Bike Mechanics Should Always Have a Handy Copy of ...
Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair
by Jim Langley OR...
Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance OR Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance
both by Leonard Zinn
Urban Mechanics Who Like Their Repair Manuals With an Edge Will Love ...
How To Rock and Roll : A City Rider's Repair Manual
by Sam Tracy
Winter 2002 Q & A's (45 of them posted this season) ...
Nix the Mix of V-Brakes and Cantilever Brakes on Raleigh (posted 3/20/02)
Biker Not Foiled By Aluminum Rims. Hard Riding Responsible. (posted 3/20/02)
Andy Skewered By Creaking Sound (posted 3/20/02)
The Chain Is Falling! The Chain Is Falling! (after flat fix) (posted 3/20/02)
Shiftless Shifter Causing Gears To Shift Without Shifting (posted 3/20/02)
Make Molehill Out Of Road To Mountain Conversion (posted 3/4/02)
One Pump For Two Types of Valves = Trouble (posted 3/4/02)
No Trouble Here: Rockshox Adjustment (posted 3/4/02)
TriSpokes Carbon Idea Burnt By Shimano 9 Cassette (posted 3/4/02)
Will His Bladed Spokes Give the Axe to Cycling Computers? (posted 2/11/02)
Pass On the Gas. Do the Electric Slide. (posted 2/11/02)
No Star Quality to Apollo Guru Front Suspension (posted 2/11/02)
Could Allenax Crank System Be Less Of a Tax on His Sore Knees? (posted 2/11/02)
Bell Trailer Reminiscent of Department Store Mongooses (posted 2/11/02)
Deore Crankset Safe Bet With 8-Speed Cassette, IG Chain (posted 2/11/02)
Wobbly Rolf Wheels Victims of Too Much Weight Or Too Little Prep (posted 2/11/02)
Slipped Chain Sleuth Andy Presents Five Possible Culprits (posted 2/11/02)
Cracked Hugi Hub Sparks Warranty Worries (posted 2/11/02)
New Chain and Cassette Will Tank Slipping Pedal Crank (posted 2/11/02)
Get Out From Under a Rock(shock) and Head to the Stratosphere (posted 1/1/02)
But With Stratos You May Be Outa Lock (posted 1/1/02)
Don't Get Speared By Fork Improvements (posted 1/1/02)
What's In a Frame Measurement? (posted 1/1/02)
Chain Falling Has Him Calling For Andy (posted 1/1/02)
If You're Able Why Not Replace the Cable? (posted 1/1/02)
How Much To Make Low Rider Pretty In Pink? (posted 1/1/02)
More Paint Advice From Andy Da Vinci (posted 1/1/02)
All Roads Lead West For Bike Repair Schooling (posted 1/1/02)
No Skidding = No Fun for Freestyle Rider (posted 1/1/02)
Climbing Mountains Has Her Fearing Campy Gearing (posted 1/1/02)
Campy Cassette With Dura Ace Lever? Never! (posted 1/1/02)
Inexpensive Cruiser Conversion More Expensive Than New (posted 1/1/02)
Slime Good For Training, Slow In Race, But Faster Than a Flat (posted 1/1/02)
Defunct Spin Wheel May Not Be Best Deal (posted 1/1/02)
Hung Out To Dry Trying to Re-hang Rear Der (posted 1/1/02)
Getting a Grip on Loose Brake Levers (posted 1/1/02)
Null Is Void of Solution to Freewheel-Cassette Removal (posted 1/1/02)
Mavic Cosmic Carbon Wheels Campy Compatible...For a Price (posted 1/1/02)
Must Use a Standard Ring To Have a "53" On a Campy Racing Triple (posted 1/1/02)
Soups On! (for Huegi hub lube) (posted 1/1/02)
I have bought a 2001 Rockshox judy xc fork for my 4-year-old Raleigh M-400. The problem I've run into is that the bike has canti brakes and Rockshox does not sell hangers anymore. I would like to find another solution than replacing the brake system (with shifters since they are in one assembly). Is there any place that you know of that might still provide these hangers?
You can not safely modify this fork to accommodate canti's. You either have to buy all new V brakes and levers, or buy V brakes and use adapters such as the QBP travel agent (app. $18 per wheel, and do both wheels. You really don't want a V on the front and canti rear).
My son has a Haro Dave Mirra 99 freestyle BMX model. I have tried to contact Haro with no luck. I was wondering if you knew this answer to this question. We have had considerable amount of trouble with blown tires, locking brakes, chains popping, chain breaks, etc. I recently discovered that the bike has aluminum rims and was told this was the cause of all my trouble. The people at the repair shop that I continually go to (same place purchased) have never mentioned this. Of course this continues to make me return for repairs. A friend of my son got a new Haro Reva(?) for Christmas and has no trouble. He said his rims are steel. My questions are: Should this bike have been sold with weaker aluminum rims even though it is made for tricks/jumps, etc., or was this a problem during assembly at the shop where I purchased it? I am told I need to purchase new stronger rims. Is the Haro company liable for this in any way due to the fact a BMX bike was sold with aluminum rims? I spent a lot of money on this bike and a lot more on repairs mostly due to the aluminum rims. If I need to buy new rims can you tell
me how to find the best price but the correct strength? I appreciate any information you can give me in this matter.
Whoever told you that steel rims are stronger than aluminum is a total idiot, and you should avoid their advice like the black plague. This is a fairly common misconception, probably based on comparisons with car wheels. Bikes and cars have absolutely nothing in common. If your kid is blowing tires and breaking chains, it probably wouldn't matter what brand of
bike you have or how much you paid for it. It's a little hard to connect aluminum rims to chains or flats or brakes. You can get better or worse aluminum rims, but I would not sell you a steel wheel under pain of death.
Get a heavy duty rim, such as the Sun Rhyno lite, or Araya super 7X or Velocity Psycho, and remember--nothing is indestructible. If you purchased this bike from me, I would cover one broken chain, no bent rims (or bent anything) and no flat tires. If the brake has not been removed or tampered with, then it should also be covered.
There's a creak in my Litespeed Classic when I stand and crank up a hill. It seems to be coming from my front end. I have greased my stem (threaded) and the spot where my bar joins my stem, but I can't seem to eliminate the creak. Any thoughts?
Dale E. from Northern VA
I've had a persistent, similar problem with my OCLV bike. Just by dumb rotten luck, it was cured yesterday. I had a flat, and rather than take time to change it--I really needed to go home-- I grabbed a cheap wheel off an entry level road bike. I was astonished! After spending countless hours looking for the source of the creak, spending boucou bucks on a new
Dura-Ace crank/ BB, all I needed to do is replace my $40 ti skewer with a $10 steel one. Serendipidydoo.
I just finished replacing a tire and tube on my son's bike. Having replaced it, we are having trouble keeping the chain taut. It also falls off after riding a while. What am I doing wrong?
I assume that this is a single speed bike. You need to pull back on the wheel and tighten the axle nut at the same time. If you don't have 3 hands, you can wiggle it back, by tightening the nut on the left side, loosening the right, and pushing the wheel to the left. Hold it with one hand, and tighten the nut with the other. If the wheel actually slips with sufficiently tight nuts, then either buy some serrated washers, or a BMX chain tensioner.
I work for Wal-Mart assembling bikes. A customer came in and had a problem with the front derailleur not shifting properly. I looked at it, and noticed that it would shift up to the top when shifting, but--as soon as I let go of the shift handle--it would jump back down to second, so I checked the limiting screws, and they were fine. I got it to go through all the gears while the bike was on the stand, but as soon as pressure was applied to the bike, it wouldn't shift right. What would cause this?
The problem is in the shift lever. It is either broken or worn out. If it is a thumbshifter (not likely) it may need tightening.
I have a touring bike with Shimano RSX components--a triple in the front and 9 in the back. I would like to change to a flat handlebar with mountain-bike-type brake levers and shifters. Can I do this and not have to replace the derailleurs or any other components? If I can, what is compatible?
Sometimes mountain and road components don't work as well in the mix as they do when used only with like components. Things shift, but not as well as they might otherwise, and Shimano advises not to mix road and mountain components. That doesn't stop companies like Vision from mixing components on high buck recumbents, but they still don't quite work right. For this reason, Shimano has developed the flat bar shifter, a.k.a. SL-440. These will mount to the flat bar, but perform optimally with Shimano road derailleurs. I think you'll also need to find some non-V-type brake levers.
Otherwise, everything should work.
My wife bought me a nice Silca floor pump as a gift. I love the concept of replaceable parts, but I can't figure out the air chuck. It seems that I can screw it on the presta stem, but when I unscrew it, I loose pressure. I can hold it in place, with difficulty, and try to pump with one arm on a handle designed for two, so that just seems wrong. Am I missing something? Is there a lock, or a replacement chuck that locks?
ESPN Productions, Inc.
Operations Coordinator - Remote Facilities Planning
Unless I am mistaken, the Silca pump works very well on presta valves, but not so well on schrader valves. The presta chuck friction fits over the valve, and there is no threading involved, you just unscrew the presta valve core and shove the chuck on the valve. The reversible chuck threads onto schrader valves, and does not work well. I have one presta only pump, and another one with a cheap thumblock on the hose fro schrader use.
Please tell me how to adjust a Rockshox Judy tt.
This fork only has preload adjustment at the top of each leg. Turn the adjuster clockwise to add preload, or make the fork stiffer, and counterclockwise to attain the opposite. If you are less than 140 pounds or over 180 pounds, the preload adjusters won't do much for you. You'll need an appropriate spring kit, available from Rockshox or Mountain Speed.
A friend who's hung up her racing shoes has given me two old TriSpoke carbon rear wheels. Each is built with an 8-speed Sachs freewheel. I ride Shimano 9. Nice wheels if there's a way to use them. Is it possible to pull out the freewheels and replace them with Shimano cassettes? Or convert them to front wheels?
I don't think that there's any hope for this proposition. Use them for your retro bike, or as wall hangings.
Does anyone make shifters that enable you to move 7-speed Campy shifters from the frame to the handlebars on a road bike?
No. Any Ergo or STI upgrade has to be total; all the drive train parts must be changed to work well.
I just picked up my new Raleigh R700 Road bike. It has the new Shimano wheels with 16 reversed installed blade spokes (the nipple is in the wheel hub). A normal wheel speed sensor won't fit on these spokes, plus the spokes are not side by side. They are in pairs going left and right. In other words, the speed sensor would be facing forward and aft instead of facing the fork.
Question: Who makes a computer or speed sensor that will attach to a bladed spoke and only needs one spoke to hold it in place? I also want the computer to have the cadence function.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Spinergy makes a $10 magnet to fit Spox and Xaero wheels, and it should fit yours. I think that the Sigma Sport magnets will work, and the BC 1400 can be used with cadence. The Flight deck magnets don't fit bladed spokes very well, but I've used Sigma magnets with Flight decks.
I would appreciate your input re: what to look for in a good, reliable, value-for-the-money engine kit for bicycles (and what to stay clear of).
Don't buy a gas motor. There are several nice electric systems available. My current favorite is the Currie drive system, because it doesn't rub against the tire. Any motor you put on is going to add a lot of weight. Prices run from $375-$575.
Last year I bought a green Apollo Guru. I was pleased with it except for one thing: THE FRONT SUSPENSION. I don't know what to do. For months I've been putting WD-40 and oil on it but it doesn't seem to work. The problem is my suspension's stiff and I would like it to be a bit bouncy. Can you help?
Forks on these sorts of bikes are more or less ornamental, and usually don't work very well. Some of them come apart and can be greased, but many cannot be serviced.
In 1994, I had both knees replaced; in 1995, they had to go into the right one and replace some of the plastic because of an infection. I have come out of these surgeries (and prior ones to my right knee) with a limited flexibility, especially in my right knee. The limitation is so severe that I am unable to rotate a pedal through a complete rotation without the one leg assisting the other over top. I hate to give up my biking, but it is too painful as things are now. That is the reason for my interest in the Allenax system. Do you have any idea how Allenax compares to a regular pedal system for efficiency? Do I have to buy the whole bike, as your answer to previous question seems to imply. Simply...HELP!
I had no idea the Allenax system was still around. I don't know much about it except that it is weird. They made all sorts of claims in the mid 80's, and I thought they went the way of Powercam cranks and Biopace. There is this thing that allows you to pedal forwards and backwards, but I don't know how that would work in your case. If you can find an Allenax, you'd just have to try it out, or maybe consider a handcycle.
I'm looking for a stroller conversion kit for a Bell bicycle trailer. Does Bell have a website that has trailer products? I sure can't find anything. If you can point me in the right direction, thanks!
Here we go again. Bell sports (coincidentally, one of the many owners of the fine Mongoose trademark), makes a line of good stuff which is usually sold in bike shops, and that trailer is sold under the Rhode Gear name. Bell sports also makes a line of total crap which is sold in department stores, and it all says Bell on it, as opposed to Bell helmets, Rhode Gear stuff, and Blackburn other stuff. The Rhode gear trailer comes with a conversion kit, the Bell trailer does not, and no parts exist for the department store Bell stuff.
I've a bike with IG chain, 8-speed rear cassette ...
Can I use a new Deore crankset (designed for 9-speed, HG chain) without problems?
Thanx for advice,
Any experience with Rolf Propel wheels? There seems to be a lot of lateral flex in my front wheel and I wonder if the spoke tension (or lack thereof) could be a source. The wheels were trued at the onset and I only have about 100 miles of hardpack or paved trail riding on them since. They are light, but I lose a lot of speed when they rub against my brake pads.
First, step on an accurate scale. If the dial indicates more that 180 pounds, regardless of what anyone may have told you, get conventional wheels. If it reads less than 180, find a Rolf service center, and have them check everything out. Many a wheel "expert" do not use spoke tensiometers or torque wrenches, (or scales for the potential rider) and with today's expensive lightweight stuff, this should be a crime.
This is probably a simple thing but I have a 10-speed and the chain slips. Could you help me out with that one?
It probably is simple, but it could be any number of simple things:
1. Worn parts--either chain, cogs, sprockets, or all three. If the chain skips in one combination of gears, and not others, you can narrow it down to a cog or sprocket.
2. Broken or worn rear derailleur jockey wheels--this should be easy to spot.
3. Misadjusted or worn out derailleur.
4. Bad frame alignment or chain line.
5. Frozen link in the chain. Pedal backwards and, if a link sticks going through the derailleur, see if you can move it. If it is frozen, it can sometimes be worked loose by bending the link plates back and forth, but it
probably should be removed.
What a great service you provide. Thanks so much.
I have a tandem, with a Hugi compact HRDT-1.1 rear hub. The hub has three hairline fractures on the drive side. I was wondering if Hugi is good about warranty and/or repair for the flange. I have no information on the hub. Do you have any ideas?
David S. Caruso-Radin
Contact DT Swiss at 970-242-9232.
I have a Schwinn Woodlands with a lot of miles on it. On occasion, when I pedal hard, the pedal/crank jumps forward without resistance and I end up slipping off the pedals or some other near tragedy. Could you tell me where to start looking for this problem?
You probably need a new chain and cassette. If you don't have the tools (cassette lockring tool, chain whip, and chain tool), it's best to have this done at a shop, about $60+.
Recently (I won't get into how it happened) my stripped down bike frame was run over by a car tire. It bent the back part of the frame fairly severely...is it toast or can it be bent back successfully and still be a good riding bike?
Thanks for the help!
A good quality steel frame can be bent back into shape fairly well; anything else cannot.
My friend just bought a used '99 Specialized Ground Control Comp; the rear suspension tops out as if the dampening were broken. Do you know of any Rockshox or Specialized warranty for that year? If so please send us a reply. Either way if you also know a way to finding specs and other info on later model bikes such as this one, please send us that info too.
Thanks a lot,
Rockshox warranties are only for a year. The shock on this bike was one of the more disposable pieces I've seen in recent years. I don't think that it can be fixed, and if so, is not worth the money to fix. Get a Stratos--I like the one with air and coil spring, with rebound damping.
I would like to replace the rear shock on my 1998 FSR Enduro. I am looking for a rear shock that will lock out. Right now it has a coil over Rockshox Deluxe. I am having a horrible time finding one. I've asked all the local dealers around and I have checked Fox's website but they don't list my bike. I also checked the Rockshox website but they won't tell you which shock will fit your bike.
I believe that a Stratos Helix pro will fit your bike, and it may be the only thing going with a lockout control (either remote or on the shock body).
I recently purchased a front suspension fork for my bicycle and cut the steerer tube to the proper length. Then unexpectedly I purchased a new full suspension frame without a front shock. The steerer is ideally 1/4" short. Is there a way of having someone press in a new steerer tube?
You cannot safely replace a pressed in steerer tube. You may be able to purchase the steerer/crown/ inner stanchion assembly, but that may cost more than your fork is worth, looking at new closeouts and all.
I was wondering what exactly is the measurement when you say a mountain bike is 18 inches or 20 inches. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for your time,
Usually, the frame is measured from the center of the crank to the center of the top tube, but it is not uncommon to measure from the center of the crank to the top of the top tube, or sometimes to the top of the seat tube cluster. Some 18" frames are actually bigger than other 20" frames if you account for the variety of measurements that are used.
If I start out from a dead stop with my chain in the front "middle" sprocket the chain often comes off the sprocket? Is my derailleur at fault? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This could be a lot of things. In order of likelihood:
1. worn or broken cogs
2. " " chainring teeth
3. " " chain
4. wrong size bottom bracket spindle--bad chain line.
The derailleur would be a very remote suspect in this problem, but it is
I have a Jamis Eureka LE. I just upgraded my headset and shifter pods from Shimano Deore to XT. The problem is that I got them cheap, but new, on ebay and I don't have a clue how to put on the new headset or the new shifter pods.
Can I just use the same cable on my bike and replace the pods alone?
Any help is greatly welcomed.
Most Shimano shifter pods only fit the exact brake/shift lever bracket for which the were designed. There are a few exceptions, but either it fits or it doesn't. If you are going to the trouble to replace shift levers, it'd be stupid not to replace the cables and housing. This stuff doesn't last forever you know.
Can I use my existing rotors to install the XT brake set?
Bel Air, MD
Your rotors would have to be very close to the same diameter as the Shimano rotor. If there is any doubt about this, don't use them. The calipers have to fully engage the rotor, without hitting the caliper housing.
Hi, I was just wondering: I have a black low rider bike but I want it to be pink, how much do you think it would cost to spray paint it pink?
The cheapest decent paint job can be had from the Color Factory, in New Jersey, I think. You'll pay at least $120.
It seems that I have scratched my Raleigh R600 and I want to touch it up with the exact paint color, which is a blueish color. Do you know where to go?
An auto parts store may be your best bet. The paint that most manufacturers supply is pretty lousy, if even available.
I was wondering if you knew of any bike repair schools on the east coast that offer bike repair classes for people who want to learn from basic to advanced bike repair, or maybe there is factory certification? I live in New York state and the only place I've found is in Oregon.
Bike schools seem to be a left coast phenomenon, with Barnette's and United Bicycle Institute (Ashland, Oregon) being the only ones that I am aware of.
I have a Mongoose k.o. that has a gyro system. I tried everything but for some reason when ever I try to skid with it the brakes just keep rolling for about five feet and come to a stop. Is there anyway to tune the gyro system so it can make skid marks?
At best, a gyro will not work as well as a direct routed cable, you know, a straight line being the shortest distance between two points and all, but there are a few things you can do. Spare no expense on the cables. If you can, get a teflon gyro set (I'm not sure, as I am intentionally ignorant and highly opinionated about these sorts of things; they should be outlawed or all burned up in a mass "freestyle is finally dead" funeral pyre; I thought, and truly hoped, that freestyle went out of style with 80's hair bands, but I guess I was wrong on both counts). If you can't get teflon, use a thick oil to drip into all four cable housings, and use a lot of it. Set the thing up right. If you don't know how to do this, pay somebody who does. Use the best brake shoes and only the best brake levers and brake calipers available. Use an Odyssey brake line for the front brake, and make all cables as short and direct as possible. Make sure that your rims are spankin' clean, even lightly sanded if needed. Two hours and $50 invested in this project, and you may be able to actually stop, but probably the only skid marks you'll see will be in your shorts after someone opens a car door in front of you.
My wife and I moved into a hilly section of New Hampshire and I need some help gearing down her bike. We ride loaded on weekend tours. She rides a 1997 Bianchi San Remo. It has a Campagnolo Mirage Rear derailleur and a Veloce front. The triple crank has 32/42/52 Exa Drive rings. The 8-speed cogs are 13-26.
I have looked around online, but it seems Campy does not have much for smaller rings or larger ratio cogs. She loves the way Campy shifts and the smoothness, but she has bad memories of the stumpulling 26/28 Suntour components on a former bike.
Can I get a get lower gears and stay with Campy? Where should I look for parts? Should I start considering Shimano since they have cornered the market on mountain bike components?
Candia, New Hampshire
As far as I know, there are no stock Campy gears lower than those you have. It may be possible to convert a Shimano cassette to Campy spacing, and get down into the low 30's in the rear, if your derailleurs can handle it. If you want to change to a Shimano crank, you'll need at least a Shimano bottom bracket and, for optimal performance, an entire Shimano drive train.
I have a complete 9-speed Campagnolo groupset on my bike but I wish to use Dura Ace levers now. Will Dura Ace 9-speed levers and rear mechanical work fine with a Campagnolo cassette? Would there be any problems?
Absolutely no way on earth. It will not work, no way, no how. Use all Campy or all Shimano, the only exception being some cassette kits for interchangeability.
I'm looking for a good looking, medium performance cruiser. I'm considering buying an inexpensive (but spiffy looking) single speed and upgrading it to a Nexus 7-speed. Other than finding a bike with horizontal dropouts, are there any other pitfalls I should avoid? Should I purchase a complete wheelset kit or have the original wheel rebuilt to fit the new hub? Or, do I need to quit whining and just spend the money on a Nexus-equipped Schwinn/Electra?
I think that you'll wind up spending a lot more by converting your inexpensive cruiser than you would on the complete bike. I believe that the Nexus-equipped cruiser can be had for around $350.
I am a triathlete and have recently ordered slime tubes for my road bike. I have heard that these tubes are considerably heavier. I will be doing a sprint triathlon in two weeks that consists of a 12-mile bike ride. How much can I expect the slime tires to slow me down?
Rotational mass is by far the most critical weight to shed on the bike. If you are serious about this event, buy the lightest tubes and tyres you can get. Even small amounts of rotational weight will slow you down, and considering that Slime is going to weigh as much as a complete light weight tube, you will be carrying enough to be significant. Use the Slime for training only.
PS: No matter how fast you are, flat tyres will also slow you down. But, barring a flat, lighter is faster.
Could you give me a brief review on a pair of wheels I'm trying to purchase? They are 1998 Spin Trispoke 650c. How is it in weight and performance? How does it compare to the Zipps of Spinergy?
The now defunct Spin wheel was inexpensive and cool looking, but they were somewhat heavy and not nearly as true is other wheels. If you can afford the Zipps, they're your best bet, and Spinergy is tried and true, sort of. You won't get any warranty support or customer service from Spin.
I did a bad thing. In removing the rear wheel to change the tire/tube, I unbolted the derailleur mechanism from the frame. Now I cannot get it back on. The bolt is aluminum and seems to be too large for the hole in the frame. I have the little c-shaped nut and it fits the bolt fine. This is a Huffy 12 speed. I almost want to shrink the bolt using dry ice to get it back through.
Would that be going too far? I don't have a lot of money. Please help.
The bolt in question goes into a hole in the derailleur hanger. The "D" shaped nut slides to the back of the rear dropout (the slot for the axle), so that the curve or the "D" seats into the corresponding curve of the dropout, and the slot in the derailleur hanger lines up with the slot in the dropout.
How the !@#$% do you tighten the sideways motion of Shimano 105 brake levers/shifters. The brake lever moves when I push the inside shifting paddle and it seems like it just needs tightening. I can't seem to find any way to get the nose cone thingy off to tighten it, or do you come at it from the other side?
There is a channel in between the rubber hood and the brake lever body on the outside of each lever. Use a 5mm allen key to tighten the levers. It fits into this channel and engages the clamp bolt.
I just have a simple question...well maybe it's much more complex than I think it is. Anyways, I'm trying to disassemble the gears on my bike. I've taken off the rear wheel, and have stripped it of the spokes, rim, tire, etc. All that is left is the axle, which is connected to the gears. I need the gears and the axle separate and I haven't figured out how to get them apart. Do I need some special tool for this job? Please shed some light of my problem.
You either need a freewheel tool or a cassette lockring tool and a chain whip. If you have a freewheel, you'll need to reinstall your spokes and rim in order to get enough leverage to get it off.
Regarding '99 Mavic Cosmic Carbon wheels:
I'm considering a used pair of those wheels, but I've got a '98 Campy Chorus 9-speed drive train. Will that work at all given they're only Shimano compatible?
Thanks for being out there.
There are conversion kits and complete Campy-compatible Shimano modified cassettes available. Mavic may actually make something that works for this wheel. Expect to spend at least $75 over and above the price of the wheels to get the rear one compatible.
I have a Campy racing triple with a 52-42-32 combination chainrings. Can I use a 53 instead of a 52?
Campy does not make a 53 racing triple ring. I'm not sure exactly what the ramifications of using a standard Campy 8/9 speed 53 ring would be, but I would imagine that it would work, as should any 135mm bolt circle ring. If you don't already have one, I'd try an 11-tooth cog instead.
I have a pair of Rolf Vector Pros with a loud, rear, Huegi hub. What can be done to make it more quiet? I am thinking on the order of some kind of lubrication, not altering the mechanism. Do Morningstar lube tools work on Huegi hubs? Can I dissemble the hub and lube it (or is it a pressed-fit mechanism that can't be taken apart)?
The freehub pops off without tools. Leave the cassette on, and press away from the hub with your thumbs on the big cog. Once that's off, clean it out and relube with very thin grease or very light oil. If you can find it, Paul Morningstar has developed a "freehub soup", which is the only product specifically formulated for this purpose.
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